Milkbar + Flour = A Sweet Day

The class made an excursion to Cambridge this week to sit in on the Harvard Food Science lecture featuring Milkbar’s Christina Tosi and her use of emulsions in her famed, saliva-inducing, all-American desserts. Although there was a bit less of the chemistry lecture component from the Harvard professors, Tosi appeared to know quite a bit about the chemistry behind her culinary decisions. She demonstrated the process of making her marshmallow cookies and chocolate-coffee-passionfruit cake.
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It was so insightful to hear the scientific reasonings for certain baking rules I have learned to adhere to after being active in the kitchen for seven years but did not know why they work. For example, I recognized that more creaming of butter and sugar equated to fluffier cookies. Also, over-handling of the dough once flour is added would make rubbery cookies. Chef Tosi explained that beating the butter and sugar incorporates air creating bubbles that contribute to a flaky, light cake. The mixture turns whiter as it is creamed because as more bubbles are created, light is scattered. She also explained that more aggressive handling of flour results in greater formation of the strong sticky protein called gluten, great for full-bodied breads but undesirable in cookie and European cake recipes. At the end of the lecture, I was able to get my fan-girl picture with Christina Tosi!
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After enduring the delectable fragrance of freshly baked goods during the lecture, a trip to Flour Bakery was necessary. From one successful female chef to another. Each student ordered a sandwich, prepared on Joanne Chang’s special bread. As I sunk my teeth into the plush, moist bread that I often dream about, I thought of the high-protein flour that had likely been used. My next personal kitchen endeavor will be mastering the art of bread making. Professor Didem ordered a layered hazelnut cake that was divine.
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The entire day was a beautiful testimony to the benefits of being part of an intimate community; a group of Wellesley students can audit a Harvard course and a professor will spend time with her students, altruistically open her heart and share life wisdom over some treats. At times like this I wonder if these opportunities in my life are real.

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