This past week we explored the finicky nature of emulsions. We beat nearly 3 cups of oil into three yolks, with hopes of achieving a tightly packed, semisolid emulsion of uniformly small droplets. Considerable physical force is required in order to prevent the oil droplets from coalescing into a separate layer. This tendency of liquids to form single large masses and minimize their surface area is an expression of the force known as surface tension. An emulsifier has a fat-compatible tail and water-compatible head where they embed their tails in the droplets and leave their electrically-charged heads projecting into the surrounding water, thus repelling each other instead of coalescing. Large protein and starch molecules help stabilize emulsions by blocking the fat droplets from each other. If the mechanical mixing force is not continuously applied or the mediums are not integrated in small enough increments so the emulsion is not overwhelmed and broken (bottom right of image), then a thick mixture will result (upper right of image).
Now we could not waste our egg whites, so in addition to our mayonnaise we also made those delicate, sweet melt-in-your mouth morsels…meringues. Ovalbumin is the major protein in egg white and is sensitive to heat, which causes it to unfold and coagulate. When the raw foam is cooked, the ovalbumin more than doubles the amount of solid protein reinforcement in the bubble walls. Much of the water evaporates and the heat transforms a semiliquid foam into a permanent solid one. My group made meringues using powder sugar while the other group used fine granulated sugar. Even during the beginning egg white beating stage, it was evident that granulated sugar was more successful than the powder sugar. The powder sugar sample took longer to thicken into a foam with stiff peaks. Research on the properties of egg foams reveal that the sharp crystal edges of granulated sugar cut the proteins and accelerate the process of merging liquid and air. These are the results, powder sugar on the left and granulated sugar on the right.
We could have baked the meringues for a while longer. The centers were still semisolid foam and retained a distinct egg taste, whereas the baked edges were of that wonderfully dissolvable crisp, sweet goodness. But when meringues are in the oven, any chef who delights in the joys of chemistry-concocted confections would not be able to resist pulling out the delicacies a moment too soon.
While the powder sugar meringues achieved flattened spherical bases that a macaroonist may have lauded, the undeniably “winning” meringue was the granulated sugar batch.
This was my first experience making meringues and I look forward to employing this simple, low-fat recipe as a regular entertaining dessert. While abroad in London, I discovered the irresistible combination of chopped strawberries, fresh whipped cream, and crushed meringue…a good ol’ “Eton Mess”.