Racks of secondhand clothes. (Source: Berkeley Economic Review)

Grandma sweaters, knit vests, and dad shirts are in. People are flocking to their nearest donation thrift shop to find unique vintage and retro pieces. We no longer want cookie-cutter, mass produced clothing—different is the new black. In the past decade, sustainable clothing has increasingly garnered consumer interest, as the exploitative nature of the fashion industry becomes more widely understood. 

Everyone is an active participant and consumer in the apparel industry, connecting us to the rising issues of clothing production and disposal. Recently, many concerned consumers have begun turning to secondhand shops for clothing acquisition and disposal in efforts to give clothing a second-life, reducing textile waste that ends up in landfills. Despite the stigmas of shopping secondhand, young consumers have turned to their nearest Goodwill to help the environment, and because “retro” clothes are in style! Young consumers are also keen on donating clothes, as a morally conscious alternative to throwing their clothes out.

To better understand how these consumer trends relate to environmental awareness, researchers Arminda Maria Finisterra do Paço, Walter Leal Filho, and Lucas Veiga Avila studied consumers’ clothing disposal behaviors and motivations, as well as perceptions around buying secondhand clothing.

The study surveyed 203 people from 34 countries with various levels of industrialization and environmental awareness. These cross-cultural findings allowed for a better representation of global clothing consumption behaviors, especially because they included countries where clothing manufacturing is prominent (i.e. Bangladesh). 

First, the study confirmed that consumers prefer to donate clothes rather than reuse or sell them. People either gave their old clothes to family and friends or donated them. All but three participants also showed they recycle in general for the environment and to help others.

Participants also showed they act from goodwill when donating to Goodwill. The top two reasons why participants said they disposed of clothing were “recycling efforts will bring a good impact to the environment” and “to help others”. While participants claimed they disposed of clothing for selfless and altruistic reasons, this might not always be the case. The following three reasons were more personal and less about humanitarianism: “Inadequate size,” “uselessness,” and “shortage of space.”

This study partially confirmed that consumers do not consider environmental factors when making clothing choices (buying/disposal). Purchasing apparel made from environmentally-friendly material was one of the highest factors considered. However, buying clothes from environmental labels was one of the lowest factors, which may seem contradictory, but can be justified with the lack of well-known, easily accessible (and affordable) environmental brands. 

Overall, this research offers much needed hope. The apparel industry as it exists now is unsustainable and poses threats to human and environmental health. In an environmentally friendly world, clothing would be recycled and repurposed. However, this rarely happens, and clothes are too quickly sent to landfill. The current commodity chain is focused on quick and cheap mass production and low retail prices. Although low prices may seem appealing, the inbuilt obsolescence in garments overlooks the environmental impacts of high volume waste.

The solution? Follow the motto we know best– reuse, reduce, and recycle. By reusing and recycling textiles, the apparel industry can shift to  a closed loop production. This can help decrease textiles sent to the landfill, energy and water, pollution, and dye usage. By voting with our dollar and loving our clothes a little longer, consumers can incentivize corporations to revamp their harmful practices.