Pawpaw, poor man’s banana, bandango, custard apple, prairie banana, and the Indiana banana. A fruit so common that it has half a dozen names, but most people don’t know what the fruit is. I didn’t know what pawpaws were before I stumbled across Pawpaw: In Search Of America’s Forgotten Fruit by Andrew Moore.

Photo of where pawpaws naturally grow in the southeast of the U.S. 

Source: Pawpaw: In Search Of America’s Forgotten Fruit By Andrew Moore

The pawpaw, or Asimina triloba, is the largest fruit native to North America. Pawpaws grow on a tree and can be harvested in the fall by shaking the tree. They have a green outside with a sweet, yellow inside when ripe. The pulpy inside is mixed with inedible black seeds. They are incredibly versatile and common in the Pawpaw Belt. They can be used in beer, ice cream, smoothies, and pie.


But pawpaws still won’t be found in almost any grocery store.


Growing pawpaws on farms is incredibly difficult, so they are usually foraged. The pawpaw is finicky. They rot within days of ripening, and only ripen while on the tree. One pawpaw farmer, Jim Davis, lost the majority of his crop when a hurricane hit because he could not pick them early and let them ripen later. Nevertheless, he has continued to grow pawpaws but is one of the only ones. It’s not hard to see why.


Trees take six years to produce fruit, which causes an extreme lag between costs and profits that is unsustainable for most farmers. Additionally, it requires a lot of manpower as getting the pulp out is best done by hand or as much as 50% is wasted, and they must be picked by hand since they bruise easily. Moore still wants to spread the pawpaw and bring them to grocery stores all over the country. While this is an admirable goal, it is unlikely many farmers would be willing to take on these burdens. Foraging will likely remain the most common way to enjoy pawpaws, as they have been for centuries.


The book follows the history of pawpaws from before human contact all the way to modernity. Pawpaws have been in America since giant sloths ate them while roaming the continent. Indigenous groups used them for food. The Iroquois used it in sauces and corn cakes. The Caddo and Creek also ate this fruit, though they all had different names for it.


Spanish conquistador Hernando de Soto relied on them for sustenance on his exploration near what is now Tennessee. Jamestown residents were introduced to it by the Paspahegh tribe. Kids in Appalachia grew up on this throughout the 1900s.


Moore uses anecdotes mixed with this historical context to keep the reader engaged. Between history lessons, he shares his adventures – like how a park ranger was waiting for him at his car while he was pawpaw picking. When he realized, Moore called out “Just picking up pawpaws!” He described himself as looking “like a feverish madman, shaggy-haired, way too wide-eyed and excited, holding a bag of mushy green orbs” but was allowed to continue on his way.


The reader follows him as he floats down the Mississippi, attends a pawpaw fair, interviews professors, and works in an orchard. He follows the pawpaw everywhere they grow. This book is an attempt to bring pawpaw back to America. He is passionate, calling himself and others ‘pawpaw nuts.’ This makes the book engaging, as the reader falls into the same level of care as he illustrates the benefits of pawpaws.


Moore interviews everyone he meets about pawpaws, including people selling fruit on the side of the road and waitresses at the diners he eats at. One stand out is Neal Peterson. Also known as Johnny Pawpawseed, Peterson is a retired USDA employee who is trying to spread the pawpaw throughout the U.S. He has bred different varieties of it and sells seeds and trees to farmers. He has been doing this for over 30 years. Moore tried those varieties, but also wild ones he found everywhere from North Carolina to Louisiana. They were all unique, much like the state’s pawpaw culture.


Different state’s knowledge of pawpaws varies as widely as the location they grow. Appalachia has plenty of knowledge and many people grew up with it. They were self reliant during the Great Depression, and foraged for food – including pawpaws. This tradition was passed down and remains popular with Appalachians. Alternatively, pawpaws are basically unknown in North Carolina. But they grow in both places. Moore explores why and how this is possible.


However, it can get too bogged down in history. Long passages on Lewis and Clark, 1900s pawpaw competitions, and more make for an overwhelming amount of history. Cutting back would allow the pawpaw to shine more and let the reader get attached to individual pawpaw enthusiasts.


This book is a wonderful entry way into foraging, providing knowledge and history of this delicious fruit. It also answers questions about how to harvest, how to eat it, and what to look out for. It is a comprehensive look at this ancient fruit, and is perfect for those wondering about the nature around them.