No. No. Ugly. Frumpy. Too big. Too small… Perfect! 

Thrifting is an art. Trudging through aisles of clothing to find the one gem is a skill that one acquires over many trips to Goodwill. The ego boost I get when someone asks me “Where did you get that?” and I get to tell them about the amazing deal I got for a one of a kind item; the feeling just can’t be beat. My Coach designer bag worth approximately $200 — that I got for $20 — is my pride and joy.

For young consumers like me, it’s not just the sustainability aspect that draws us to the thrifting. It’s the price. Would I — a semi-broke college student — be able to afford a Coach bag regularly? Not at all. But through thrifting I can.

Price is one of the same reasons fast fashion is so popular. It’s trendy clothing for very cheap prices. Although it costs the consumer very little, the environmental costs are enormous. Not only are most fast fashion pieces not recyclable, adding to the ongoing issues of “eternal” plastic waste in our landfills, but the water waste and transportation pollution that comes from making the clothes also take a toll on our planet.

Thrifting might offer an alternative. Thrifting’s low price point often rivals that of fast fashion — with equally trendy items and with a lower environmental cost. One recent study asked that exact question, and whether environmental education on fast fashion and thrifting is the push people need to make the sustainable switch. 

While trying to find the answer, the researchers conducted a multiple-part study trying to find a link between sustainability, thrifting, and increased incentive to buy from second-hand options. The studies looked at how effective sustainability is as an incentive, and if there was a correlation between education and consumer habits.They found that Gen-Z and Millennials — a group that I myself am a part of — are more receptive to sustainability claims, but also more susceptible to greenwashing, meaning the false sustainability claims made by  fast fashion brands.

In response, the study suggested that educating people about greenwashing can change  consumer habits. When the young people they interviewed were told about the environmental costs of fast fashion and the benefits of thrifting, there was a small change in consumer behavior; although the link was overall very weak. 

While education may be part of the solution, researchers were worried about online sellers driving up the prices of second-hand clothing. With platforms such as Depop, Ebay, and Poshmark, they found that some people are able to capitalize on finding the thrift gems and reselling them at exorbitant prices. How is thrifting an alternative to fast fashion when it is becoming less affordable? 

For example, a shirt that probably cost them $2 at Savers, will be sold for $40 — even $100 — on Depop. Everyone has to make a living, but this is having a real impact on the thrift market and its affordability. To deter online sellers from buying clothes in bulk and reselling, some thrift stores have raised their prices, while others are limiting customers to only a few items. These changes could harm those who have no other choice but thrift stores to buy their clothes, and might make fast fashion more desirable. While the study only lists online sources as an issue, I’ve found that thrift collectives (real-life versions of Depop with individual sellers) also drive price gouging. 

Another problem surprisingly unmentioned in the study is drop shipping. That’s the practice of buying clothing from fast fashion companies and large wholesale manufacturers — such as Alibaba or AliExpress — and reselling it as your own product at very high prices. It’s usually very dishonest, because many sellers try to pass off the goods as handmade or thrifted. By purchasing wholesale from these companies and reselling it, these sellers are just adding to the problem of fast fashion and its environmental costs. Personally, I’ve been wary of buying from small artists/sellers just because of the fear of drop shipping. 

The study recommends a multifaceted approach to changing consumer behavior. They suggested that policymakers and the government should get involved. In another vein, they suggested that clothing retailers should allow for circular cycles within their brands. That means that they should encourage consumers to sell the clothes back to them. Sustainability brand Reformation claims it will become completely circular by 2030. And some big brands like Lululemon have also begun a circular reselling model, which allows consumers to snag trendy clothes at discounted prices.

This study highlights the potential for education to change what’s possible with second hand fashion market. It may already be happening. Between 2021 and 2023, the value of thrifting industry grew  from $138 to $211 billion. It has happened for me. I almost exclusively get my clothes from second hand sources, and many of my friends do the same. If anything, with more education and information about thrifting, a lot of young people could make the switch. Because it’s not only about being mindful about how much you buy, but where you buy.