いただきます

Itadakimasu

Neon lights glow in a riotous rainbow of color amidst the storefronts of a lively Shinjuku night as we exit the bustle of the subway and re-enter the city. He’s taking me to try Japanese barbeque for dinner tonight. I’ve been living here for months now, but this will be my first time trying it. We walk off the main thoroughfare, turning down a side street before descending a shady set of stairs. I glance to the side at Junpei and he smiles at me reassuringly. “It will be good!” he promises. I smile back and follow him into the restaurant. Outwardly unassuming, the location leaves me hesitant. It’s only after we open the door and step into the hazy interior to be embraced by friendly commotion that I shed my uncertainty about the location. It’s a neighborhood sort of place, where a visitor like me is rarely seen. The place you have to happen upon or grow up next to. I should feel like an outsider here, but I don’t. It’s boisterous, and dark, and matches absolutely none of my expectations. I love it. As we are guided down an aisle I catch snippets of conversation, more felt than heard, from the tables to either side. Joyous, celebratory, with comfortable abandon people’s lives play out in the room about us. Finally, our waiter stops to usher us into our own little nook and hands us the menu. As he goes to get us our drinks, I pause for a moment to look around and really take it all in.
 

Surrounded by horizontal planes of black-varnished wood, we have an illusion of privacy, but can still sneak peeks of our neighbors between the boards. Each table has its own little gray stove set in the middle with charcoal bricks nursing fiery crimson hearts. Next to it are an assortment of jugs, a couple of shakers with spices and pepper inside and a pile of small navy plates for dipping sauces. The walls have been painted a creamy hue of beige, or yellow, it’s hard to tell from our table. However, like the wood that embraces us, the ceiling has been painted black. A shiny metal bell-shape hangs above each table to draw up the smoke rising in tendrils from the charcoal stove, but the place is still smoky, and the lights are haloed in the clouds. That industrial bell, somehow so fitting here, snakes up and into one of the many large black tubes that try in vain to draw the smoke away and form a thick, tangled web on the ceiling above us. It’s like no place I’ve ever been in, but everyone is so full of life that I feel myself drawn into the excitement of this new experience.

I stare at him wordlessly for a moment before sputtering, “I can’t believe you just ordered that!” He smiles and quirks his eyebrows mischievously at me before taking a casual swig from his tankard of beer and telling me that I should give it a try. My stomach churns with uncertainty at the thought of eating tongue, and liver, and all those crazy things my dad would never cook back home. But…he’s right, I find myself thinking. I am in Japan. I should give it a try. The food begins arriving at our little table and distracts me from thoughts of the more unusual body parts Junpei wants me to try. I watch spellbound as he masterfully begins placing food on the grill in front of me while explaining how to cook it, when to turn it, what the best sauces are for dipping, and if it’s better eaten alone or accompanied by something else. He, of course, thinks it all tastes better with beer. But I’m already drunk enough in his company and my enthrallment with the whole novel process, I don’t need any assistance. “いただきます” (Itadakimasu) we say together as we begin eating to express our gratitude for the food. With the unusual meat temporarily forgotten amongst more familiar parts, I find myself extending my silver chopsticks eagerly for each sizzling piece.

He has me try each type of sauce and pairing. I’m a Texas girl, I was born and raised on barbeque, but I have never had it like this. The sizzle as each piece of thinly cut meat hits the metal grate, the licks of flame as fat pops and drizzles onto the bricks, the way the meat curls and colors with the heat. I am entranced. Each piece of meat rings with a delicious and unique litany of flavor as it hits my tongue and its juices fill my mouth. Before I know it, the only tongue in my mouth is not my own. My eyes pop open wider in surprise, caught off guard, as he tells me what I just ate. I swallow, uncertain, as he watches for my reaction. It’s nothing at all like what I would have imagined! A dim red color with only a faint marbling to it, the meat doesn’t really look or feel like tongue. It’s a bit denser than what I ate earlier, but it’s not bad. He chuckles at my reaction and I blush a bit. Daring me, he sets the chicken livers on to cook next. The livers are small, rounded little gobbets of meat and look more fearsome to me than the tongue did. My stomach does a little dance again and I glance down at my assortment of small blue plates and the gamut of flavors they contain. I comfort myself with this reminder of the sauces I can dip the meat in if needed. And I still have plenty of water left if I need to gulp it down quickly. I remind myself of how amazing everything had tasted up till now and steal a mischievous sip of Junpei’s beer before reaching out for one of those little balls of meat. I plunk it in my mouth and squint contemplatively as it hits my tongue. Weird…a different texture than I’m accustomed to in my meat…but not bad, I conclude. He adds another piece to the grill and I breathe a sigh of relief it’s just カルビ – short rib.

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