Daily Archives: March 12, 2017

Form and Meaning

"It is Happening There," By Khaled Al-Saai
Khaled’s painting “It is Happening There”
Source: http://www.kunstverein-grafschaft-bentheim.de/195.html?&L=1

The painting projected on the screen in front of me is overwhelming and chaotic.  I try to pick out the Arabic letters and words. They are all tangled together, written in different sizes and rotated to every angle making it impossible to read most of the words. The piece, called “It is Happening There,” is Khaled Al-Saai’s most recent painting.   He explains that it represented his response to the evolving conflict in his home country, Syria.  I sit there feeling somewhat defeated, assuming most of the meaning of the piece was lost on me.

This was the first day of the Arabic calligraphy class I took with Khaled at Wellesley last spring. This lecture, given by Khaled himself, was my introduction to both the artist himself and his work. He insisted we call him by his first name, a request that reflected his modesty in spite of being a world-famous artist. Although I had never taken an art class in college, at that point I had been studying Arabic for almost three years, so I figured I was reasonably prepared for what was in store for me.  However, the complexity and precision of Khaled’s piece was immediately intimidating and swept away any confidence I had had when I walked in.  Khaled presented his work, then had us spend the remainder of the four-hour class drawing the most basic letter, alif, over and over again.  When written, an alif is a simple vertical line, not unlike a lowercase L. I had always thought of calligraphy as a more complicated and highly-stylized kind of writing, so I had hoped that my frequently-complimented Arabic handwriting skills would reduce the learning curve I faced in the class. However, from day one Khaled made it clear to us that “calligraphy is not the same as writing.”  I struggled to understand what he meant by this.  Even though I had written a thousand alifs in my Arabic homework, my exercises looked like a child’s drawing when compared to Khaled’s work. Calligraphy seemed insurmountably difficult to understand, let alone create.

In Islam, the depiction of living beings is prohibited.  As a result, calligraphy has become the dominant art form in the Islamic tradition. Calligraphy varies in style by region and context: for example, the Taj Mahal in Agra is decorated with verses from the Quran written in Thuluth script, while the walls of al-Azhar mosque in Cairo are lined with Kufic.  More contemporary Arabic calligraphy like Khaled’s combines these traditional styles with a more modern use of color and shape. In our class, Khaled teaches the basics of several types of script, with a focus on the Sunbuli style (Sunbuli takes its name from the Arabic word for a kernel of wheat, sunbul.) Khaled explains that the basic leaf-like shape of the style echoes that of the wheat, a shape incorporated into every other letter in the alphabet. Considering that Arabic calligraphy is composed entirely of letters and that I had such trouble mastering the most basic one, I had little hope for my artistic prospects.

A few weeks into the semester, Khaled gave a public lecture about his work.  The audience in the library conference room was a mixture of his students and community members from the town of Wellesley.  The lecture was not unlike the presentation we had received on the first day of class.  He gave a brief overview of the history and different styles of Arabic Calligraphy before showing a sample of his own work, ending with “It is Happening There”.  At the end, there was time for questions.  One woman introduced herself as a resident of the town and commented, “I can’t read any Arabic; to me this is just shapes.  It’s beautiful but is there some kind of meaning that I am missing?” Khaled paused for a moment and responded, “In some ways I think that you have an advantage.  My students get caught up in trying to read the words and they forget to see the bigger picture.”  He continued, “In this piece I wanted to convey the chaos and the confusion of war and of trying to understand it from afar.  Do you see that?” The woman said she did and the audience echoed her response with nods of agreement.  Khaled explained that, yes, the words did have meaning but understanding them only added nuance to the bigger ideas.  In the case of “It is Happening There,“ many of the words are the names of towns and cities in Syria, under siege or overrun by violence. However, it is by no means necessary to grasp this detail in order to see the big picture of the piece.

It became clear to me that Khaled’s painting transcended the meanings of the words with which it was created.  Arabic calligraphy is not so much writing as it is painting.  Khaled’s work especially depends less on the literal meaning of the words and more on the overall movement and color of the piece to convey meaning.  This style makes his art accessible to people with little knowledge of its background.

That lecture took place a year ago. Today, in the context of increases in Islamophobia and misconceptions about the Middle East, sharing this kind of art is even more important.  Exposing the American public to Middle Eastern culture in a context other than the news helps to break down existing assumptions and stereotypes. Although there is more depth to be explored by reading into the meaning of the letters and words, grasping the emotion of Khaled’s calligraphy requires no more than an open mind.

Life in a Yukata

I pushed aside the fusuma, the rectangular sliding doors characteristic of Japanese architecture, and peered inside the room. I was overcome, especially after a night of karaoke, by the peace and stillness. The walls of the expansive bedroom were beige. Two pairs of blue slippers for me and my friend rested by the door. A tiny brown table with two white square mats sat in the middle. I heard the gentle flow of a little waterfall and walked to my window where I gazed at a school of white and gold carp swimming leisurely in a pond. The room’s light fragrant scent reminded me of the times I spent lying on the couch in my grandmother’s living room as she rubbed her Chinese body oil, which always felt minty to my skin, into my back. I suddenly felt a sense of calm and familiarity in this room that had housed many strangers and was thousands of miles away from home.

I was in the mountains of Hokkaido, Japan, for my first hot springs experience. It was time for dinner, and my friend and I looked forward to changing into our yukata (soft cotton kimonos) for the first time. The word yukata refers to “bathing clothes,” and they were designed for wear before entering and after leaving an onsen (hot springs). We stripped out of our shirts and jeans, and then dressed in matching white and blue yukata with black sashes. Since my yukata resembled my taekwondo uniform, I tied my sash like I always did for my taekwondo belts, but loosened it for greater comfort.

Wearing the yukata was liberating as I realized how effortless I felt moving around without the nuisance of rough jeans, constricting bras, shoes that pressed my toes together and the itchy tags on most of my shirts. I felt as if I were enveloped in a huge, warm blanket, and exposing my body to a new culture.

I felt strange walking into the dining room, a larger version of our own room with many low brown tables, wearing just my yukata and no undergarments. My skin felt as bare as an oyster without its shell. As my friend and I sat on our knees in front of our tables eating shabu shabu (Japanese hot pot), I began to feel more comfortable in the yukata like all the other diners around me. The name shabu shabu was the Japanese onomatopoeia for the soft swishing of the chopsticks in our pot’s water. One by one, I grabbed vegetables, fish balls and thinly-sliced pieces of marbled beef with my wooden chopsticks and plunged them into the water, for a few seconds until they had cooked. Before each anticipated bite, I dipped my food in a soy sauce and then savoured the juicy flavours.

Next came the visit to the onsen. Upon entering the changing room, we carefully undressed, put our yukata into cubbies, and each grabbed a towel. It is disrespectful to be loud, to run and to tread around with outdoor shoes once one enters the changing rooms. Even the children who were hyper at dinner understood. We entered through glass doors that led to the onsen. To my left was a wall with a row of shower heads, each next to its own mirror, bathing products and a small stool. It is important for guests to clean themselves before entering the onsen, a place of rest and serenity.

I stepped into the 40 degrees Celsius water. Steam was drifting into the air and I felt as though I were a wrinkly piece of cabbage in a shabu shabu pot. At first, the water was too hot, so I lowered myself gradually. Once I was fully immersed, I folded my towel into a little square and placed it on top of my head as the other women did – to let my hair or towel touch the water would be rude. I feared making a mistake since I had learned all these rules last minute and felt that it would be easy to offend the Japanese people around me. But as no one was staring at us, my friend and I quickly began to unwind as the warmth of the water washed over us. Being naked in the onsen felt as freeing as being naked under my yukata. I had never felt so comfortable with my nudity. We blended in with the women around us; many had their eyes closed, some were sitting on rocks and everyone’s faces were slowly turning pink and sweaty from the heat. I felt as though I were truly becoming a part of the culture.

After the hot springs, I was glad to be back in the yukata; I had never felt more relaxed. I soon fell asleep on the thin cotton futon on the floor of our room, which was surprisingly a lot more comfortable than my own bed at home. I almost forgot that I had spent an entire day without wifi or any technology, far from the busy and packed city.

Wearing my yukata permitted me to welcome another culture. I had opened my body and mind to a side of Japanese culture that differed greatly from the nightlife of the brightly-lit cities and their prominently advancing world of technology. I realized that although the strict rules rooted in the tradition were initially daunting, they ultimately allowed me to feel a greater sense of peace and freedom that I had never experienced in my own culture.