The first humans moved to New Zealand (Aotearoa in Te Reo Māori) just under 800 years ago, traveling from Polynesia in canoes to settle here. Compared to the lengths of time humans have been living on other continents, Aotearoa is very newly colonized. This combined with the relatively small population and strict conservation laws has allowed the natural wonders of this island to flourish without quite as much alteration to the land as other countries. Much of the “bush,” or wilderness, is extremely remote and very wild. New Zealand is very proud of its nature and goes to great lengths to prioritize its protection. I notice the attitude toward the natural world takes on a different tone than what I am used to. Kiwis (New Zealanders) revere the country’s mountains and beaches and appreciate the beauty of their country. Hikers and campers exploring these lands are incredibly respectful of the rules around staying on the path, not pitching tents anywhere other than designated zones, and taking measures to ensure minimal interference with the wildlife. 

It seems that the lengths to which the government goes to conserve the native species populations and maintain true wilderness has resulted in this lush wonderland remaining more or less true to the state it was in 800 years ago. New Zealand sees a lot of ecotourists looking to backpack, hike, camp, mountain bike, and experience the outdoors. While this industry is prolific, there are tight regulations to ensure the preservation of the natural landscape. 

I have been on several long drives through the country, the first being 30 hours of bus rides across both islands. Though the country is beautiful, its transportation infrastructure is very limited. There are no trains and almost no highways – what they call an “interstate” is a two lane road weaving through valleys and around mountains. Where I am studying is in a very pretty valley surrounded by hills and beaches, but only a select few beaches and none of the hikes are accessible with public transportation. Pretty much all of the beautiful wilderness requires access to a car. Though this was originally quite disappointing as a study abroad student here for a short time without a car, I realized that the population is just too small and the wilderness is too big to support a public transportation system. New Zealand is only home to about 5 million people, and Dunedin has a population of just over 130,000. Part of the reason there is so much open wilderness is because of the small population and minimal frequent contact with wild areas. This allows mountains like Flagstaff, a 15 minute drive from Dunedin, to feel like the middle of nowhere with views of untouched mountains in every direction. 

Everywhere I go, there is so much to look at, so many plants and birds I’ve never seen before, and I feel as if I am in a place where most people around me are also awestruck by the beauty of the outdoors. There is a culture of reverence towards it, with many non-profits focusing on protecting these sacred areas. Māori song and dance centers on the land and its animals as not just objects of beauty but teachers and spiritual leaders. In the month that I have been learning a few waiatas (songs) in Te Reo Māori, I find that aspects of their language are much better at expressing the depth and wonder of these feelings towards nature than English can.