The Bouregreg river splits the cities of Rabat and Salé. It is not huge, but is certainly substantial. From the Chellah, a Middle Ages necropolis and mosque built on top of a Roman city, you can look out over the river and the bit of marshy land separating it from the city, where right now […]

It rained this morning, and on and off last night. At breakfast my host mom warned me about the cold, but the rain felt warm and light from a Midwestern perspective. By now, around lunch time, the garden is dry except for a couple puddles in the gutters in the shade and a bit of […]

I am sitting in my university’s garden, a patch of grass and bushes between a few blocky buildings. I just got out of Modern Standard Arabic, and my brain is fried – it is the end of my first week of classes in Morocco, and the end of my first week speaking only Arabic, all […]