There’s a saying in China: “You don’t need to see any more mountains after seeing ‘the Five Mountains’, and you don’t need to see the other four mountains after seeing Huangshan.” True to the legend, Huangshan, or the Yellow Mountains, is one of the most famous and mystical areas in the country, with bus loads of tourists arriving every weekend. Last week, my friend Sangha and I decided it was our turn, so we hopped on the high-speed train to make the journey southwest.
We spent the first day in the neighboring town of Tangkou, where I checked out Feicui gu or the Jade Valley. A gorge of naturally fluorescent-green pools cut deep into the bamboo and pine tree forest, radiating a calming beauty I hadn’t realized I was missing in a big city like Shanghai. Jade Valley is alternately called Qingren gu or “Lover’s Valley,” with many red ribbons and heart-shaped padlocks tied along the gorge for good fortune. Ang Lee even filmed a scene from Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon in the pools, a fact celebrated by a sideboard on the path. But I digress.
The next day, Sangha and I woke up early to beat the crowds. A quick bus and cable car ride up, we emerged to a breathtaking view in the mountains. We were so lucky to experience a clear-skies, no fog day: the complete opposite of Huangshan’s typical weather. Wasting no time, we immediately began hiking around the Xihai Western Sea Canyon. As we looped around many peaks and descended deep into the canyon valley, we marveled at the glorious green mountains and stopped to take many photos.
After several hours of hiking and some well-deserved rest later, we were treated to a lovely sunset while standing atop “Monkey Gazing at the Sea Peak.” (Yes, that is the actual name). Even better was the sunrise the following morning. Even though we had to wake up at 4:30 am, the payoff was totally worth it. After staring for thirty minutes at a blanket of clouds (wondering if there’d even be a sunrise) a single ray of sunshine shot through. Then another. And then another, until the whole sun rose above the clouds and for twenty spectacular minutes, we watched the sun rise over the Yellow Mountains. This particular day happened to be Easter Sunday, which made everything feel even more special. Then, twenty minutes later, a huge bank of clouds rolled in and Sangha and I went back to the hotel to demolish the breakfast buffet.
Gray dominated the sky as we descended the mountain that day, all the while blessing the luck that had brought us such perfect timing with the weather. Even though our calves burned for the next few days (most of the hiking was stairs, not flat surfaces) we couldn’t stop marveling over the jaw-dropping vastness of the mountains, undying greenery, and our own good fortune in being there. When you’re living in a huge city, escaping to the countryside can provide much needed fresh air and relaxation.
I don’t know if I’ll make it to the other four mountains, but I do know that Huangshan is an experience not to be missed!
